Gurudongmar lake as on November 3, 2009. Photo Credit: Vijainder K Thakur

January 27, 2012, (Sawf News) - The Gurudongmar lake is located in North Sikkim on the Tibetan plateau close to India's border with the Tibet autonomous region of China.

The glacier fed lake, at a height of approximately 17,000 ft. feeds the Tista river which flows through Sikkim, West Bengal and Bangla Desh into the Brahmaputra river and eventually the Bay of Bengal.

Location

The Gurudongmar lake is located in North Sikkim adjacent to the Tibetan plateau on the North side of the Khangchengyao Range, close to India's border with the Tibet autonomous region of China.
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North Sikkim comprises of two valleys in the east, which border Tibet, and the Khanchendzonga National park adjoining Nepal in the west.

The Tista river runs through the eastern valley and the Rangit, a Tista tributary, runs along the western valley. The two rivers join at ChungThang which is approximately 97 kms from Gangtok, approximately halfway to Gurudongmar.

Sikkim. Photo Credit: UT Austin

History

Here is the legend behind the lake according to Sikh history.

Guru Nanak Dev Ji journeyed through the area on his way back from Tibet during his third Udasi (journey) in 1516. He provided solace to Buddhists of the Karmapa Nyingmapa sect who had settled down there after being hounded out of Tibet by the Gelugpa sect.

During the visit, yak grazers sought Guru Ji's help over the scarcity of fresh water in the region, because the lake remained frozen throughout the year.

Guru Ji hit the frozen lake waters with his stick  and the ice melted away in that part of the lake making its pristine water accessible. The blessed part of the lake hasn't frozen since.

Guru Ji also advised the yak grazers to drink the lake water to increase libido drained by the lack of oxygen at that height.

"Whosoever takes the water of this lake will gain virility and strength and will be blessed with children."

Nineteenth century British maps record the lake's name as Gurudongmaar, corroborating the legend.

Thankful for the Guru's visit to the area, Lamas of Karmapa Nyingmapa Sect regularly visit the Golden Temple in Amritsar even today.

The monastery at Lachen, commemorates the Guru's visit with his footprints, his robe and a water-carrying utensil (kamandal).

Source of Tista

The glacier fed lake feeds the Tista river which flows through Sikkim, West Bengal and Bangla Desh into the Bay of Bengal. Its water is considered therapeutic and the lake is worshiped by the Sikkimese people and the Buddhists.

The start of the Tista river. Photo Credit: Vijainder K Thakur

Sarv Dharam Sthal

In the 1990s the Indian Army built a Gurudwara near the lake to mark Guru Nanak's visit, which caused resentment amongst the local population of Sikkim. The Gurudwara was subsequently converted into a Sarv Dharam Sthal.

Sarv Dharam Sthal, Gurudongmar Lake. Photo Credit: Vijainder K Thakur

Visiting Gurudongmar

The lake remains completely frozen during winter which extends from November to Mid-May, except for a small part believed to have been blessed by the Guru.

Gurudongmar lake clicked from top of the Sarv Dharam Sthal. Photo Credit: Vijainder K Thakur

Being located close to a sensitive border, access to the lake is closely monitored by an Indian Army check-post at Giagong. The area is open only to Indian citizens during morning hours. All tourists are expected to clear the lake by 11 AM.

Visiting vehicles are continuously monitored by Army border posts perched on heights.

There is no provision for overnight stay and even the restroom at the Sarv Dharam Sthal is closed at 11 AM. Besides security reasons, an overnight stay at such high altitudes requires acclimatization.

Khangchengyao Range south of the lake. Photo Credit: Vijainder K Thakur

The closest point to Gurudongmar where you can stay overnight is Thanggu, which is about 22 km short.

Thanggu. Photo Credit: Vijainder K Thakur

Accommodation at Thanggu, which is located at 14,000 ft, is spartan, with rooms costing Rs 400/- upwards for a night, and are available only during the four month tourist season from October-December and March. The bathrooms have squat toilets.

A lodge in Thanggu. Photo Credit: Vijainder K Thakur

Gurudongmar lake is approximately 193 km from Gangtok. Since you can visit the lake during morning hours only, an overnight halt at Lachen, which is approximately 40km short of Gurudongmar is recommended.

The journey from Gangtok to Lachen can take from 7-8 hours.

North Sikkim Roadmap

North Sikkim Road Map. Photo Credit: Vijainder K Thakur

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