A model presents a creation by Italian fashion house Gucci
© AFP Francois Guillot

MILAN (AFP) - Upbeat optimism shone through at Gucci which has very short black A-line dresses, pepped up with criss-crossing bands of red and fuchsia silk, in store for spring-summer 2007.

Indeed, the designer even allowed the vivid colours, in both matte and gloss, to run along the legs of straight black pants, even to outline the waist or the pockets on short black skirts.

Wide belts with a triple buckle added emphasis.

But for softer embellishment, Giannini covered embroidered flowers in pink, red and brick over the front and back of trousers, or as the shirt front of a short-sleeved mini-dress.

The allure of high-shine also held its own for a white patent coat, cut short and straight, adorned with a belt of tiny mirrors, or a trapeze dress embroidered with pearls and gold.

A model presents a creation by Italian designer Alberta Ferretti
© AFP Francois Guillot

Giannini, unveiling her third collection for Gucci on the fifth day of Milan fashion week, also sent out close-fitting trousers and jackets with graphic black and white motifs.

Over at Antonio Marras, the white paper petals of giant scrunchy flowers slowly opened up setting the scene for a dreamily romantic wander through a secret garden.

The Sardinian, who made references to fairies in his style notes, started his ethereal collection with delicate tapestry and splashes of exquisitely embroidered roses.

Lightness defined soft coral and pistachio dresses that were gently draped, the soft fabric drawn in at the back. Glittering in the dark came the bust of a creamy-yellow floaty dress.

Wispy feathers fluttered in models' hair, giving way later to plaits framing the face like folkloric characters as the collection got more earthly -- skinny ties and a tiny black leather jacket.

But Marras kept up the delightful details though keeping some treasures hidden at first sight, such as jet beading or a stunning black motif on the back of a short skirt.

A model presents a creation by Italian designer Angelo Marani
© AFP Filippo Monteforte

Alberta Ferretti's gorgeous dresses were awash with gentle glamour.

Womanly glamour for Ferretti is not the in-your-face kind, but rather it is subtle, soft, sensual and graceful where satiny smooth or light floaty fabrics skim and caress the skin.

For ultra-feminine daywear, the Italian designer offered the occasional pattern, albeit super-soft in pale browns and beige for a smock dress with a loose tie on the hip.

But solid shades ruled.

And Ferretti particularly triumphed with her highly-wearable satiny soft tunic dress in lush fuchsia, or smokey-grey for a longer gown, with a sweet tiny silver belt under the bust.

Or again, with a pale turquoise satiny dress with a straight slashed neckline and slit arm holes that was gathered softly by a low-waisted tie -- sure to be a hit for lovers of effortless style.

The Ferretti woman also likes to tantalize -- but only discreetly, a back bared by soft scooped draping, or a soft but low V-cut. Pleating and billowy sleeves were also key, while soft greys and champagne rounded off the colour palette.

On Thursday, collections by Jil Sander, Fendi, Dolce and Gabbana and Emilio Pucci will be presented on the catwalks of Milan where shows run until Saturday.

©AFP