A creation by Miuccia Prada
© AFP Pierre VerdyMILAN (AFP) - While Bottega Veneta and Alberta Ferretti also kept their eye on the allure of the fabrics at their ready-to-wear shows here Tuesday, Prada gave traditional wool a very contemporary twist.
Thickened to create a quilt effect, or covered to make it shine, she offered greens, orange and grey for little sweaters and matching skirts that were a fresh take on female suits.
The winter collection's masculine touches such as dark woollen overcoats worn like dresses that stood off the body with no hint of a waist did little to dent the confidently feminine Prada appeal.
A model for Alberta Ferretti
© AFP Pierre VerdyAt Alberta Ferretti, the silhouette was elongated and elegant, while the glamour smouldered in graduating shades of grey and moody hues, but the focus seemed set on the richly-worked fabrics.
They included thickly-embroidered glittery sequins, midnight blue patent, a long mohair-like coating, studs or other detailing dotting the collar and pocket, satiny prints and patterns worked into the fabric.
Textures paired up, contrasting print and tweed on a dress, for example.
Fluid satin, wool and cashmere were the tools of Bottega Veneta's creative director Tomas Maier who chose soft tones in grey, off-white and delicate rose for little dresses sculpted into the hollow of the back and leaving shoulders seductively bare.
A creation by Alberta Ferretti
© AFP Pierre VerdyAt Jil Sander, Raf Simons' approach to understatement still succeeds in speaking volumes.
Against a plain decor of uninterrupted white, the Belgian master of minimalism crafted a supremely strong image with thoroughly uncluttered clothes made with architectural precision.
His focal point was the cape. Meticulously curved with defined yet rounded shoulders, its strong contours, echoed through the collection, were set off perfectly by drainpipe pants.
Suits were lean, dresses often figure-hugging, as the designer laid out a vision for winter that was concise in volumes with shapes cut close to the female form.
A burgundy knitted dress was designed to skim the body's curves, while a copper sleeveless version was slightly cinched to emphasis the waist, all worn over high-stacked heels.
A creation by German designer Tomas Maier for Bottega Veneta
© AFP Filippo MonteforteBut, if the devil is in the detail, as they say, Simons' detailing was devilishly dramatic. Sparse yet emphatic and considered, he used pleats and darts so sleek and crisp they seemed intrinsic to the fabric.
Highlights were a sun stitched into the small of the back of a dress with pleats radiating out, or the way the fabric was gently ushered upwards on the neckline of an otherwise plain Little Black Dress.
With its stated idea of "controlled tailoring", the collection seemed to say that confident elegance is not achieved by trying too hard -- but that is not to say glamour was lacking.
A silver dress in fine pleats with a corseted body would look stunning on the red carpet, while a one-shouldered white dress with narrow clutch bag and chunky heels was also a strong image.
A model for Veronica Etro
© AFP Pierre VerdyEtro's take on Art Deco style offered a ladylike charm that was not too neat nor prim, and included lots of layering, especially of long woolly belted waistcoats, and the throwing together of colours.
Soft, rounded and flowing, the silhouette included voluminous trousers and roll-hemmed parkas. Cubist-futurist prints were also key, and mineral colours contrasted with bright saffron, emerald or amethyst.
On Wednesday, Gucci, Marni, Antonio Marras, Salvatore Ferragamo and Roberto Cavalli unveil women's collections for autumn-winter 2007-08. Milan fashion week closes Saturday.
©AFP