A model presents a creation by British designer John Galliano for Christian Dior
© AFP Francois GuillotPARIS (AFP) - While subtlety and delicate embroidery gave the catwalk an Oriental allure, guests were seated amid decor reminiscent of the traditional salons of the 60-year-old French fashion house -- on little black chairs against a pearly grey backdrop with white wall mouldings.
However, cherry blossom trees also gave away the destination of the style voyage to come, as the spring/summer 2007 collection marked the first of four days of haute couture shows here.
Emerging from behind a giant mirror, a long silhouette with a chalk white face wore an embroidered pink silk gazar suit with folds at the collar and tails inspired by the traditional Japanese art of folding paper into decorative or representational forms.
One after the other models sauntered on clog-like shoes, with little red painted mouths, perhaps with fans in their hair, in highly-structured refined gowns in cool shades of white, pink, sky blue, coral, lilac and grey.
A model presents a creation by British designer John Galliano for Christian Dior
© AFP Francois GuillotEven when the British designer, who appeared at the end in a white-plumed hat, blue military jacket and sabre at his side, threw black or red into the mix, the peaceful aura was undisturbed.
Folded fabric like origami birds or flowers playfully perched on pieces throughout the collection, where also silk frothed abundantly into voluminous skirts or sleeves amply widened like a kimono.
Sumptuous dresses and coats were dressed up with sophisticated embroidery; silver flowers twinkled on a lilac dress, while delicate patterns included leaves, dragonflies, birds, lotus flowers and waterlilies.
At Italy's Valentino, white reigned supreme giving his exquisitely-crafted couture for daytime, cocktail hour and eveningwear a fragility that was illuminated by its silvery embroidery.
With a hint of the 1950s and 60s, the designer added pretty bows as a focal point and favoured an off-the-shoulder look for a silhouette that was often figure-hugging to contrast balloon-sleeved jackets or ample coats.
He rigorously tiered frills, kept draping and pleating supple and used tone-on-tone details for the collection whose backdrop even was in pristine white -- curtains and white carpet lit by neon chandeliers.
While delicate pink, lavender and yellow made a fleeting appearance in his 'A Whiter Shade of Pale' luxury summer wardrobe, Valentino's signature red was conspicuous by its absence.
The haute couture shows continue on Tuesday with Karl Lagerfeld unveiling his latest collection for Chanel and French designer Christian Lacroix on the line-up later in the day.
©AFP